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Traditional Fabrics

I wanted to look at what fabrics were traditionally used for the blazer, as this would inform me to what fabrics I could look at or if I wanted to get a new fabric but will similar characteristics. This would mean keeping the structure of the blazer as most of these are medium to heavy weight:

Before going into the fabrics Worsted Yarn is used within most of the traditional fabrics. This is a long-staple fibres that have been combed to remove undesirable short fibres and make them lie parallel. In the spinning operation, which imparts the necessary twist to hold the fibres together, worsted yarns are more tightly twisted than are the bulkier woolen yarns. Two yarns may be twisted together to form two-ply yarn, or three or four yarns may be twisted together to form three- or four-ply yarn. The soft, heavy yarn is strong and durable.

1. Serge: A smooth, compact fabric with an even-sided twill. Originally the technique was used for Italian Silk but can be used wth worsted yarn and was known to be used foe the first blazer on the Ship story. The properties are warmth, durability and a soft handle. A serge silk can be used for the lining of the blazer.

2. Hopsack: A raised surface, medium weight, plain weave that resembles sacking (why its name was given). Sometimes the weave can be open, which is why it is used for Spring/Summer blazers as it gives to breathability from the heat. The properties are duality and breathability.

3. Tweed: A traditional, coarse textured fabric, spun and woven in Scotland, Ireland or Yorkshire. Recently has been developed to be lighter in weight. Many have an additional pattern to the fabric, such as herringbone and houndstooth. The most recognizable tweed garment is the classic sport jacket. It became a common leisure garment for the upper and upper-middle class in early 20th century England, and has endured ever since.The properties are durability and warmth.

4.Flannel: A soft woven fabric that comes in varies fineness. It is generically used with worsted spun yarn, plain or twill weave with a napped surface on one or both sides. It is relatively warm, as still air is held in the fabric due to the napping, Addition of a man-made fibre to the blend increases the resistance to abrasion and hence may lengthen the life of the fabric.


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